Jerez Wine

On the Tuesday of Vinoble the South African contingent offered a tasting session, introduced by Dalene Steyn (Wines of South Africa) with winemakers Sebastian Beaumont and Jean-Vincent Ridon talking us through the wines.

(The wines we tasted, from left to right: Beaumont Goutte d’Or 2005, Nederburg Edelkeur 2003; Signal Hill Vin de L’Empereur 2005; Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2000; Signal Hill Straw Wine 2001; Rietvallei Muscadel 2004; KWV 1820 Cream; Bredell’s Cape Vintage Reserve 1998).

We learned that South Africa was once world-famous for its sweet “Constantia” wines. These wines enjoyed their heyday in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Sadly, competition from French wines in their main market, the United Kingdom, and then phylloxera bought this all to an end by the late 1800s. Obviously, the South African wine industry has since made a full recovery, and it’s clear there is more to come!

In light of the above, the wine from this tasting I’d like to mention first is the Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2000. This is an attempt at recreating the famous “Constantia” wine, using Muscat de Frontignan vines believed to descend from the original stock and by studying old records. The wine had a medium gold colour with copper lights, a floral muscat nose with aromas of dried apricot and spice. It was sweet and full, with zesty flavours of citrus and wood with a long finish.

Next I should mention the wines made by the two winemakers present:

Beaumont Goutte d’Or 2005. A noble late harvest blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Pale yellow, apricot and honey aromas, sweet viscous and balanced in the mouth with honey flavours, and a long clean citrus finish. Rare, since only two to three thousand bottles of this wine are made each year. Sebastian Beaumont, definitely an ambassador for his country and his wines, also makes award winning dry whites and reds and is the only winemaker to bottle a Mourvèdre in South Africa. Something I look forward to tasting one day.

Jean-Vincent Ridon had two wines at the tasting. The first, Signal Hill Vin de L’Empereur 2005, a gold coloured botrytised muscat with a floral nose, sweet balanced citrus flavour and a long dry mineral finish. The second was a wine made from grapes dried indoors for several weeks on mats of straw, the Signal Hill Straw Wine 2001. It had a medium amber colour with a thin clear rim, dried fruit and raisin aromas, sweet with citrus and mineral flavours, good acidity and a dry finish.

My notes for the rest of the wines we tasted:

Nederburg Edelkeur 2003
Noble late harvest from Chenin Blanc grapes. A medium gold colour with flashes of amber. Floral and apricot aromas, with dried apricot and citrus flavours. Long clean finish.

Rietvallei Muscadel 2004
Shiny pale salmon colour. On the nose, floral and raisin. Sweet raisins in the mouth, backed up with refreshing acidity. Clean finish.

Bredell’s Cape Vintage Reserve 1998
Bredells are acknowledged to be the best producer of Port-style wines in South Africa. This wine was a treat! Made from Tinta Barocca, Touriga Naçional, Touriga Francesca and Souzao grapes. Opaque purple colour, touch of tawny. Stained the glass. Thick slow purple legs. Pronounced nose of raisins and dried figs. Concentrated fruit, tannic and alcoholic, but all well integrated. Long dry finish.

KWV 1820 Cream
A punt at a sherry-style wine. Made from Palomino and Chenin Blanc grapes. Medium amber colour, wide rim. Oloroso-like nose, sweet spice, vanilla. Sweet and nutty. Short finish.

Later in the day, we sought out the Signal Hill stand to try two of their wines not included in the South African tasting. The Crème de Tête 2003 and Mathilde 2002. We were in for a bit of a surprise. The Mathilde it turned out was actually made after a Tokaji-style and a closer look at the label showed “Aszú 6 Puttonyos”. The colour was amber and looked oxydised, apparently deliberate since no sulphur had been added. Dried fruit on the nose. Powerful and complex taste.

There was no Crème de Tête left but that was soon forgotten because Mr Ridon conjured up from somewhere another of his Tokaji style wines. An Aszú-Eszencia 2002. Recently bottled, it had been fermented for four years and only 120 litres were produced! It had a deep amber colour. The nose was light, and I could just make out grapey and perhaps floral aromas. In the mouth it was very sweet, but with such an acididy that it seemed to melt away almost to dryness on the finish. The flavour was intense and complex. Astonishing!